术语分享 - 在线管理术语，术语管理，术语提取，标注术语

例句： Medium, a fashion and home textile design studio led by Riddhi Jain Satija and based in New Delhi, uses traditional hand-woven fabrics and natural dyes for its garments, as shown in HYPERLINK \l "

如图1.3所示，由RiddhiJainSatija领导的时装和家用纺织品设计工作室Medium在新德里使用传统的手织面料和天然染料制作服装。 HYPERLINK \l "

例句： In 1856, chemist William Henry Perkin derived mauveine dye from coal tar during an experiment, in which he had sought to create a synthetic version of the natural compound quinine.

1856年，化学家威廉-亨利-珀金（WilliamHenryPerkin）在一次实验中从煤焦油中提取出了淡紫色染料，他当时试图制造一种天然化合物奎宁的合成版本。

例句： The chapter also explores the historical practices and problems associated with dyeing textiles, which were magnified by the advent of industrial production and the transition from primarily organic dyes to aniline dyes, or synthetic chemical dyes, during the nineteenth century. By addressing the historical evolution of fabric production and coloration and its impact on the environment, we can make connections to the corresponding problems faced by the contemporary fashion and textile industries—as well as the more sustainable solutions proposed in response. HYPERLINK \l "

图1.1攻读时尚针织品设计在诺丁汉特伦特大学（凯特-莫里斯（了CROP、 HYPERLINK \l "bookmark2"a系列素食针织衫制作的用plant-based植物纤维她在提花图案加入了成分和保养建议intothe中 HYPERLINK \l "bookmark2"她在提花图案中加入了成分和保养建议，以促进低影响洗涤。避免使用单独的合成纤维标签意味着 HYPERLINK \l "bookmark2"整件上衣只用一种纤维--有机--制成，棉有助于最终的回收利用。

例句： It contains only a trace amount of the psychoactive constituent tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and therefore has no narcotic properties.

它只含有微量的精神活性成分四氢大麻酚（THC），因此没有麻醉特性。

例句： synthetics had surpassed that of natural fibers, and polyester was in the greatest demand. “Polyester Emerges HYPERLINK \l "bookmark260"from the Shadow of Nylon,” proclaimed a New York Times headline that same year. 56 Similar to rayon and nylon, polyester was an inexpensive fiber, and it ultimately came to be ubiquitous for both low- and high-end fashions.

合成纤维超过了that的ofnatural天然纤维、涤纶的需求量最大。

例句： Alongside organic cotton, there are other types of cotton to be considered that each has both positive and negative attributes.

除了有机棉之外，还有其他类型的棉花值得考虑，它们各有利弊。

例句： Processing does present some problems: the harvesting of both fibers requires costly and time-consuming hand labor, while the customary method of extracting the fiber from the stalks (known as retting) pollutes the water supply.

加工过程确实存在一些问题：收割这两种纤维都需要成本高、耗时长的手工劳动，而从茎秆中提取纤维的传统方法（称为翻晒）会污染水源。

例句： In 1917 the New York Times praised New York woman Edith O’Neil MacDonald for her ingenuity in developing a natural dye using the leaves fallen from hard-wood trees around her home in the Adirondacks, an idea inspired by the imprints of leaves left on sidewalks.

1917年，《纽约时报》称赞纽约妇女伊迪丝-奥尼尔-麦克唐纳（EdithO'NeilMacDonald）独具慧眼，利用她在阿迪朗达克（Adirondacks）家中周围硬木树上的落叶开发出一种天然染料，她的灵感来自人行道上留下的树叶印记。

例句： This has resulted in a variety of serious environmental crises, such as reduced soil fertility, loss of biodiversity, and life-threatening health HYPERLINK \l "

这导致了各种严重的环境危机，如土壤肥力下降、生物多样性丧失，以及反复接触杀虫剂的人出现危及生命的健康问题。 HYPERLINK \l "

例句： 15 Sarah Ratty’s elegant Grecian Drape Nymph dress, created for the designer’s UK-based sustainable fashion label, Ciel, is made from lyocell jersey in dove grey and metallic silver.

图1.15莎拉-拉蒂（SarahRatty）为其英国可持续时装品牌Ciel设计的优雅的希腊垂坠仙女裙，采用鸽子灰和金属银的莱赛尔针织面料制成。

例句： The quest for lower impact, more sustainable dyeing processes has generated enormous creativity and experimentation.

对影响更小、更可持续的染色工艺的追求产生了巨大的创造力和实验性。

例句： Thus, as the environmental group Greenpeace points out, waterways remain “a convenient dumping ground for all types of wastes.As with transferring production to new locations for lower labor costs, there is the temptation for unethical manufacturers to target those areas where “environmental control is less stringent.

就像为了降低劳动力成本而将生产转移到新的地方一样，不道德的制造商也会将目标瞄准那些" 环境控制不那么严格"

例句： For example, Fibershed—an organization that supports the development of regional fiber systems—has raised concerns about newly developed “biosynthetic” fibers in terms of the sustainability of the feedstocks required, waste generated through production, and the ability of these novel materials to HYPERLINK \l "

纤维提出了担忧，包括所需原料的可持续性、生产过程中产生的废物以及这些新型材料的分解能力。 HYPERLINK \l "

例句： Wool is naturally occurring, renewable, and taken from an animal that can thrive on land unsuited to farming—thus leaving arable soil elsewhere for vegetable, fruit, and grain crops. In addition, it is reported that sheep help to fertilize the soil they graze upon. More specifically, studies by the Australian-based Wool Carbon Alliance have found that “wool fiber production systems, based on renewable grass and natural vegetation, complement current demands to reduce carbon emissions HYPERLINK \l "bookmark327"Wool is also fully HYPERLINK \l "bookmark328"biodegradable.

(The博物馆at(FIT2010年）的装置照片。有机"系列，的"约翰-帕特里克（衬衫和毛衣，白色日本有机cotton棉网布，lightblue浅蓝 HYPERLINK \l "bookmark2"和白色有机棉衬衫，2009年春，美国。收藏ofThe博物馆atFIT，2010.43.1。赠-约翰帕特里克

例句： In some regions, traditional practices have persisted to the present day and are now protected as intangible cultural heritage.

在一些地区，传统做法一直延续至今，现在已作为非物质文化遗产受到保护。

例句： Even in small amounts, nitrous oxide is a dangerous contributor to global climate change.

即使是少量的一氧化二氮，也会对全球气候变化造成危险。

例句： Pesticides—a term that encompasses fungicides, herbicides, and insecticides—are used to deter pests and weeds.

杀虫剂--包括杀真菌剂、除草剂和杀虫剂--用于抑制害虫和杂草。

例句： As Whitney himself wrote of his invention, “this machine maybe turned by water or with a horse, with the greatest ease, and one man and a horse will do more than fifty men with the old machines.It makes the labor fifty times less, without throwing any class of People out of business HYPERLINK \l "bookmark211".”

惠特尼本人在谈到他的发明时写道：" 这台机器可以用水或用马来转动，非常方便，一个人和一匹马的工作量比五十个人使用旧机器的工作量还要多。

例句： Upon its introduction, bamboo was touted as a valuable fiber within the sustainable fashion market because the bamboo plant grows quickly—much more quickly than cotton—and reaches its full height in just three months.

竹子一经问世，就被誉为可持续时装市场上的珍贵纤维，因为竹子生长迅速，比棉花长得快得多，只需三个月就能长到全高。竹子几乎不需要灌溉、杀虫剂或化肥，其根部还能防止水土流失。

例句： Although the march of aniline dyes, with their inexpensive and radiant colors, continued undeterred through the latter half of the nineteenth century, their potentially toxic chemical makeup became a point of concern.

尽管苯胺染料价格低廉、色彩艳丽，在十九世纪后半叶仍在继续发展，但其潜在的有毒化学成分却引起了人们的关注。

例句： Despite these significant problems, some positive qualities of polyester production can be identified.

尽管存在这些重大问题，但聚酯生产仍具有一些积极的品质。

例句： fastness: over 150 years after it was produced, the fabric still retains a marked intensity of color.

它展示了the亮度ofsynthetic合成染料及其的color-色牢度。

例句： However, this assumption has recently been challenged by research indicating that the water footprint of polyester can, in fact, be as much as seven times that of cotton.

然而，最近有研究表明，涤纶的水足迹可能是棉花的七倍，这对这一假设提出了挑战。

例句： It grows extremely quickly and is naturally resistant to harmful insects and weeds, thus eliminating the need for pesticides.

它生长速度极快，对有害昆虫和杂草具有天然抵抗力，因此无需使用杀虫剂。

例句： Although the primary target of her consternation was chemical pesticides, Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring issued a caution about how we treat our earth, its waterways, and the damage that repeated and prolonged chemical exposure can wreak on animals and humans alike.

尽管蕾切尔-卡逊的《寂静的春天》主要针对的是化学杀虫剂，但她也对我们如何对待地球、地球上的水道以及反复和长期接触化学物质会对动物和人类造成的伤害提出了警告。

例句： “The rapid increase in materials with new and strange names appearing from season to season sometimes makes choice bewildering.New fibers, new weaves, new finishes are constantly changing the appearance and feel of fabrics,” HYPERLINK \l "

" 每一季都会出现名称新颖奇特的面料，这种面料的迅速增加有时会让人眼花缭乱。

例句： 2 This experimental bio-based nonwoven material is composed of unbleached and unrefined softwood paper HYPERLINK \l " bookmark2" pulp from sustainable forests, PLA (corn starch) staple fibers, and micro-fibrillated cellulose.

图1.2这种实验性生物基非织造布材料iscomposed由来自可持续森林的漂白和精炼的软木paper纸浆 HYPERLINK \l "

例句： harmed their eyes and respiratory systems.

这种中毒会伤害她们的眼睛和呼吸系统。

例句： MATERIALS AND PROCESSES

材料与工艺

例句： For a deeper dive into the history of specific fibers, look for books such as Fake Silk: The Lethal History of Viscose Rayon by Paul David Blanc (Yale University Press, 2016). World Textiles: A Concise History by Mary Schoeser (Thames &Hudson, 2003) offers a global view and extends the historical scope from prehistory to the end of the twentieth century. Another approach is to go straight to the original historical sources referenced in this chapter, such as William Henry Perkin’s 1869 lecture “The Aniline or Coal Tar Colours,” HYPERLINK \l "

如需深入了解特定纤维的历史，可参阅保罗-大卫-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）所著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）等书籍：保罗-戴维-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）。》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）等书籍：保罗-戴维-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）。

例句： Patrick worked with the Peruvian textiles company Creditex, which is dedicated to ethical practices, for a year HYPERLINK \l " bookmark325" to have the fabric manufactured to his specifications.

帕特里克合作与the秘鲁纺织品公司Creditexex,该公司isdedicated致力于道德实践。

例句： In addition, the fiber’s designation as organic often ends at harvest, without accounting for further stages of its life cycle—many of which are not sustainable.

此外，这种纤维的有机称号往往止于收获，而不考虑其生命周期的其他阶段--其中许多阶段都不是可持续的。尽管如此，有机棉花生产在许多方面被视为纤维生产"

例句： In addition to providing raw fiber for the national and international market, the United States made another vital contribution to cotton production at the end of the eighteenth century: the invention of the cotton gin.

除了为国内和国际市场提供原料纤维，美国在十八世纪末还为棉花生产做出了另一项重要贡献：发明了轧棉机。

例句： Dr. Alfred Swaine Taylor discussed these “arsenite of copper” pigments in an 1875 publication, confirming the widespread use of the dyes in fashion, particularly for artificial flowers and a thin cotton fabric called tarlatan, HYPERLINK \l "

颜料，证实了这种染料在时尚界的广泛使用，尤其是在人造花和一种名为塔拉坦（tarlatan）的薄棉织物上、 HYPERLINK \l "

例句： First and foremost, organic cotton is highly saleable: physical differences between organically grown and traditionally grown cotton are scarcely perceived, meaning that organic cotton has found easy acceptance among designers and wearers.

首先，有机棉具有很高的可销售性：人们几乎感觉不到有机种植的棉花与传统种植的棉花之间的物理差异，这意味着有机棉很容易被设计师和穿着者接受。具有很高的可销售性：人们几乎感觉不到有机种植的棉花与传统种植的棉花之间的物理差异，这意味着有机棉很容易被设计师和穿着者接受。

例句： The resulting design was an apron made from organic cotton canvas, and it received an outpouring of interest.

结果，他设计了一款用有机棉帆布制作的围裙，引起了广泛的兴趣。

例句： In 1917 the New York Times praised New York woman Edith O’Neil MacDonald for her ingenuity in developing a natural dye using the leaves fallen from hard-wood trees around her home in the Adirondacks, an idea inspired by the imprints of leaves left on sidewalks.

1917年，《纽约时报》称赞纽约妇女伊迪丝-奥尼尔-麦克唐纳（EdithO'NeilMacDonald）独具慧眼，利用她在阿迪朗达克（Adirondacks）家中周围硬木树上的落叶开发出一种天然染料，她的灵感来自人行道上留下的树叶印记。

例句： Rayon, the first commercially produced man-made fiber, was patented in 1892 by a British chemist named Charles Cross and his associates.

人造丝是第一种商业化生产的人造纤维，1892年由英国化学家查尔斯-克罗斯及其同事获得专利。

例句： The fiber is limited in quantity, due in part to the way in which it is grown—yields of organic cotton tend to be 20–50 percent lower than those of their pesticide-enhanced counterparts, and the fiber made up less than 1 percent of the overall amount of cotton grown in 2019.

这种纤维的数量有限，部分原因是其种植方式--有机棉的产量往往比使用杀虫剂的同类产品低20%-50%，而且这种纤维在2019年棉花种植总量中的占比不到1%。

例句： pesticide use and water scarcity linked to cotton production;

与棉花生产相关的杀虫剂使用和水资源短缺；

例句： Health risks to the textile worker as well as the wearer ranged from skin irritation to poisoning from inhalation of dust or fumes, although some experts felt that the most common method of transmission for the poison from fabric was through the skin.

的arsenic砷中毒纺织工人和穿着者的健康风险从皮肤过敏到吸入灰尘或烟雾中毒不等，不过一些专家认为，织物中的毒物最常见的传播途径是通过皮肤。

例句： Medium, a fashion and home textile design studio led by Riddhi Jain Satija and based in New Delhi, uses traditional hand-woven fabrics and natural dyes for its garments, as shown in HYPERLINK \l "

如图1.3所示，由RiddhiJainSatija领导的时装和家用纺织品设计工作室Medium在新德里使用传统的手织面料和天然染料制作服装。 HYPERLINK \l "

例句： it is derived from easily grown woods such as eucalyptus and beech.

它提取自桉树和山毛榉等易于生长的木材。

例句： However, this assumption has recently been challenged by research indicating that the water footprint of polyester can, in fact, be as much as seven times that of cotton.

然而，最近有研究表明，涤纶的水足迹可能是棉花的七倍，这对这一假设提出了挑战。

例句： Collection of The Museum at FIT, 75.

FIT博物馆收藏，75.77.1。

例句： Many other countries have also enacted regulatory measures and built filtration systems that limit chemicals and other materials in the effluent they release.

许多其他国家也制定了监管措施，并建立了过滤系统，限制排放污水中的化学物质和其他材料。

例句： The dyeing industry developed rapidly, with chemical “coal tar colors” displacing dyes from plant, insect, and mineral sources at textile production centers around the world.

染色工业发展迅速，在世界各地的纺织品生产中心，化学"

例句： Patrick worked with the Peruvian textiles company Creditex, which is dedicated to ethical practices, for a year HYPERLINK \l " bookmark325" to have the fabric manufactured to his specifications.

帕特里克合作与the秘鲁纺织品公司Creditexex,该公司isdedicated致力于道德实践。

例句： 6 In 1950 Claire McCardell, a premier American sportswear designer, introduced this Grecian-style evening HYPERLINK \l "

图1.6 1950年，Claire克莱尔-麦卡德尔a著名美国sport运动装设计师推出了这款希腊风格的evening晚礼服。 HYPERLINK \l "

例句： Furthermore, its impact on the environment is much less than that of traditional cotton, as organic cotton farming prohibits the use of chemical pesticides and fertilizers.

此外，有机棉对环境的影响比传统棉花小得多，因为有机棉种植禁止使用化学杀虫剂和化肥。对环境的影响比传统棉花小得多，因为有机棉种植禁止使用化学杀虫剂和化肥。

例句： Like nylon, polyester is made from petroleum oil and therefore carries the same devastating impacts in terms of extraction.

与尼龙一样，涤纶也是由石油制成的，因此在开采方面同样具有破坏性影响。

例句： For a deeper dive into the history of specific fibers, look for books such as Fake Silk: The Lethal History of Viscose Rayon by Paul David Blanc (Yale University Press, 2016). World Textiles: A Concise History by Mary Schoeser (Thames &Hudson, 2003) offers a global view and extends the historical scope from prehistory to the end of the twentieth century. Another approach is to go straight to the original historical sources referenced in this chapter, such as William Henry Perkin’s 1869 lecture “The Aniline or Coal Tar Colours,” HYPERLINK \l "

如需深入了解特定纤维的历史，可参阅保罗-大卫-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）所著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）等书籍：保罗-戴维-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）。》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）等书籍：保罗-戴维-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）。

例句： In 1921, Dr. Alice Hamilton, writing under the auspices of the US Department of Labor, declared, “the making of azo dyes the safest branch of the color industry.”

1921年，爱丽丝-汉密尔顿博士（Dr.AliceHamilton）在美国劳工部的支持下撰文宣布："

例句： 15 Sarah Ratty’s elegant Grecian Drape Nymph dress, created for the designer’s UK-based sustainable fashion label, Ciel, is made from lyocell jersey in dove grey and metallic silver.

图1.15莎拉-拉蒂（SarahRatty）为其英国可持续时装品牌Ciel设计的优雅的希腊垂坠仙女裙，采用鸽子灰和金属银的莱赛尔针织面料制成。

例句： It is exciting to see the development of diverse innovations in the production of textile fibers that aim to address long-standing environmental challenges.

令人振奋的是，纺织纤维生产领域出现了多种创新技术，旨在应对长期存在的环境挑战。

例句： Consider, for example, the extraction of a fossil fuel—oil—for the production of synthetic fibers and the damaging microfibers that are release d when these fibers are laundered;

例如，为生产合成纤维而开采化石燃料--石油，以及在洗涤这些纤维时释放出的有害微纤维；

例句： This has resulted in a variety of serious environmental crises, such as reduced soil fertility, loss of biodiversity, and life-threatening health HYPERLINK \l "

这导致了各种严重的环境危机，如土壤肥力下降、生物多样性丧失，以及反复接触杀虫剂的人出现危及生命的健康问题。 HYPERLINK \l "

例句： 1. Gift of Mrs. Herbert Berg and Mr. Leon Berg.

赫伯特-伯格夫人和莱昂-伯格先生赠与。

例句： Around half of the land under cotton cultivation requires irrigation, with the quantities of water drawn down varying according to agricultural practices and climate.

约有一半的棉花种植地需要灌溉，灌溉水量因农业生产方式和气候而异。

例句： pesticide use and water scarcity linked to cotton production;

与棉花生产相关的杀虫剂使用和水资源短缺；

例句： For a deeper dive into the history of specific fibers, look for books such as Fake Silk: The Lethal History of Viscose Rayon by Paul David Blanc (Yale University Press, 2016). World Textiles: A Concise History by Mary Schoeser (Thames &Hudson, 2003) offers a global view and extends the historical scope from prehistory to the end of the twentieth century. Another approach is to go straight to the original historical sources referenced in this chapter, such as William Henry Perkin’s 1869 lecture “The Aniline or Coal Tar Colours,” HYPERLINK \l "

如需深入了解特定纤维的历史，可参阅保罗-大卫-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）所著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）等书籍：保罗-戴维-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）。》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）等书籍：保罗-戴维-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）。

例句： Without knowledge of how different fabrics are produced—or how they will decompose—it is easy to assume that fabrics made from natural fibers are “good,” while those made from synthetic materials are “bad In reality, weighing up the attributes of different fibers is much more complex.The proliferation of accreditation and labeling schemes in recent years provides some guidance, but the distinctions between them can be difficult to navigate.While indexes promise an objective scientific assessment of the impacts of various fibers, their methodologies and findings have been challenged for a lack of transparency and for considering only the HYPERLINK \l "bookmark387"impacts of production, rather than the whole lifecycle.As Kate Fletcher notes, “we have to be aware about the impacts of our fibre choices on the ecological, economic, and social systems of which these materials are a part—and more tangibly on whole interrelated product lifecycles, which include cultivation, production, manufacturing, distribution, consumer laundering, reuse, and final disposal HYPERLINK \l "bookmark388".”

的影响，的production,而不是整个生命周期正如凯特-弗莱彻（KateFletcher）所指出的，" 我们必须意识到我们所选择的纤维对生态、经济和社会系统的影响，这些材料是这些系统的一部分，更具体地说，是对整个相互关联的产品生命周期的影响，其中包括种植、生产、制造、分销、消费者洗涤、再利用和最终处置......"

例句： The design of the cape itself was simple, allowing all focus to be on the shimmery effect of the dark blue cellophane strips, attached to a silk tulle backing fabric.

斗篷本身的设计非常简单，所有的焦点都集中在深蓝色玻璃纸条的闪亮效果上，玻璃纸条连接着丝绸薄纱底布。

例句： Courtaulds Fibres, the creator of Tencel, began developing the fiber as part of its “Genesis” research project, an initiative aimed at creating a product that could compete with both the cost and physical characteristics of rayon, but that was also ecologically sustainable.

创世纪" 研究项目的一部分，该项目旨在创造一种既能在成本和物理特性上与人造丝竞争，又具有生态可持续性的产品。

例句： Organic by John Patrick, shirt and jumper, white Japanese organic cotton mesh, light blue HYPERLINK \l " bookmark2" and white organic cotton shirting, Spring 2009, USA.

一家Japanese日本公司，109白色上衣的面料由Avanti公司生产，这是开始working使用有机棉in1990年装置镜头中的生态时尚》GoingGreen绿色环保 HYPERLINK \l "

例句： First, let us examine the development of industrial textile production systems, commencing with the astounding changes propagated by the Industrial Revolution of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.

首先，让我们从十八世纪末和十九世纪初工业革命所带来的惊人变化开始，考察工业纺织品生产系统的发展。

例句： The chapter also explores the historical practices and problems associated with dyeing textiles, which were magnified by the advent of industrial production and the transition from primarily organic dyes to aniline dyes, or synthetic chemical dyes, during the nineteenth century. By addressing the historical evolution of fabric production and coloration and its impact on the environment, we can make connections to the corresponding problems faced by the contemporary fashion and textile industries—as well as the more sustainable solutions proposed in response. HYPERLINK \l "

图1.1攻读时尚针织品设计在诺丁汉特伦特大学（凯特-莫里斯（了CROP、 HYPERLINK \l "bookmark2"a系列素食针织衫制作的用plant-based植物纤维她在提花图案加入了成分和保养建议intothe中 HYPERLINK \l "bookmark2"她在提花图案中加入了成分和保养建议，以促进低影响洗涤。避免使用单独的合成纤维标签意味着 HYPERLINK \l "bookmark2"整件上衣只用一种纤维--有机--制成，棉有助于最终的回收利用。

例句： Although the primary target of her consternation was chemical pesticides, Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring issued a caution about how we treat our earth, its waterways, and the damage that repeated and prolonged chemical exposure can wreak on animals and humans alike.

尽管蕾切尔-卡逊的《寂静的春天》主要针对的是化学杀虫剂，但她也对我们如何对待地球、地球上的水道以及反复和长期接触化学物质会对动物和人类造成的伤害提出了警告。

例句： 2 is one such alternative material.

图1.2就是这样一种替代材料。

例句： For a deeper dive into the history of specific fibers, look for books such as Fake Silk: The Lethal History of Viscose Rayon by Paul David Blanc (Yale University Press, 2016). World Textiles: A Concise History by Mary Schoeser (Thames &Hudson, 2003) offers a global view and extends the historical scope from prehistory to the end of the twentieth century. Another approach is to go straight to the original historical sources referenced in this chapter, such as William Henry Perkin’s 1869 lecture “The Aniline or Coal Tar Colours,” HYPERLINK \l "

如需深入了解特定纤维的历史，可参阅保罗-大卫-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）所著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）等书籍：保罗-戴维-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）。》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）等书籍：保罗-戴维-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）。

例句： The harmfulness of particular dyes is sometimes recognized only in hindsight.

特定染料的有害性有时只能在事后才能认识到。

例句： In addition, because rayon is derived from a natural material, it is biodegradable.

此外，由于人造丝是从天然材料中提取的，因此可进行生物降解。

例句： For instance, the plant madder and the insect cochineal were common sources of the color red;

例如，植物茜草和昆虫胭脂虫是红色染料的常见来源；

例句： Although nylon can be recycled, much of the fiber ends up in landfills, where it will take hundreds of years to decompose.

虽然尼龙可以回收利用，但大部分纤维最终都被填埋，需要数百年的时间才能分解。

例句： Color-grown cotton was commonly grown prior to the industrial era; its rediscovery in recent decades has been led by farmer Sally Fox.

彩色棉在工业时代之前就已普遍种植，近几十年来，在农民萨利-福克斯（SallyFox）的带领下，人们重新发现了彩色棉。

例句： The manufacture of nylon is a highly energy-intensive process and also generates nitrous oxide, a potent greenhouse gas.

尼龙的生产是一个高能耗的过程，同时还会产生一氧化二氮，这是一种强烈的温室气体。

例句： While efforts to deal with the toxic effects of chemical dyes can be traced back well over a century, the development of broader initiatives to select “better” materials in response to environmental concerns is much more recent.

尽管应对化学染料毒性影响的努力可以追溯到一个多世纪以前，但为应对环境问题而选择"

例句： In the usual method of production, the cocoons are steamed to kill the grub inside, as otherwise the HYPERLINK \l "

通常的生产方法是将蚕茧蒸熟，杀死里面的蛴螬，否则蚕丝就会受损。 HYPERLINK \l "

例句： During the environmentalist boom of the 1970s, the United States Environmental Protection Agency recognized the severity of the problem of textile dye wastes ending up in the earth’s waterways, and in the proceeding decades collaborated with the industry to establish standards for waste disposal.

在20世纪70年代的环保热潮中，美国环境保护局认识到了纺织染料废物最终进入地球水道问题的严重性，并在随后的几十年中与该行业合作制定了废物处理标准。

例句： For a deeper dive into the history of specific fibers, look for books such as Fake Silk: The Lethal History of Viscose Rayon by Paul David Blanc (Yale University Press, 2016). World Textiles: A Concise History by Mary Schoeser (Thames &Hudson, 2003) offers a global view and extends the historical scope from prehistory to the end of the twentieth century. Another approach is to go straight to the original historical sources referenced in this chapter, such as William Henry Perkin’s 1869 lecture “The Aniline or Coal Tar Colours,” HYPERLINK \l "

如需深入了解特定纤维的历史，可参阅保罗-大卫-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）所著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）等书籍：保罗-戴维-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）。，2016年）等书籍：保罗-戴维-布兰克（PaulDavidBlanc）著的《假丝绸：粘胶人造丝的致命历史》（耶鲁大学出版社，2016年）。

例句： Upon its introduction, bamboo was touted as a valuable fiber within the sustainable fashion market because the bamboo plant grows quickly—much more quickly than cotton—and reaches its full height in just three months.

竹子一经问世，就被誉为可持续时装市场上的珍贵纤维，因为竹子生长迅速，比棉花长得快得多，只需三个月就能长到全高。竹子几乎不需要灌溉、杀虫剂或化肥，其根部还能防止水土流失。

例句： 9067802854325Rayon is an especially interesting fiber in relation to its environmental impact.

9067802854325人造丝是一种对环境影响特别大的纤维。

例句： As reported in a 1930s publication on textile pollution: “Textile waste liquors range from almost harmless to very toxic and putrescible mixtures Although dye waste can be a highly visible effluent in lakes, oceans, and rivers, what is unseen can be equally, if not more, harmful.As scholar Anthony S.Travis noted in his study of dye pollution in Basel, Switzerland, during the 1860s: “Compared with eyesores such as stagnant or dye-coloured streams and clouds of choking gas in industrial districts, subsurface water was certainly out of sight if not completely out of mind Drawing from Swiss archival documents, Travis explored the link between a dye plant, J.J.Müller-Pack and Company, and soil and groundwater contamination with toxins, including arsenic, from the dye-making process.Poisoned well water extended the risks of aniline dye production from the workers in the plant to the surrounding environment and those who called it home.Rachel Carson explained why groundwater pollution was so worrisome: virtually “all the running water of the earth’s surface was at one time groundwater so, in a very real and frightening sense, pollution of the groundwater is pollution of water everywhere The events described in Basel played out shortly after the first aniline dyes were discovered and had begun to be industrially manufactured, providing evidence that the danger of dumping dye effluent into water sources was evident early on.

地球表面的所有流水都曾经是地下水，因此，从一个非常真实和可怕的意义上说，地下水污染就是各地的水污染。巴塞尔》中描述的事件发生在第一批苯胺染料被发现并开始工业化生产后不久，这证明向水源倾倒染料废水的危险很早就显现出来了。

例句： Nylon’s wrinkle-resistant qualities reduce the need for routine ironing, which saves a great deal of energy over a garment’s wearable life.

尼龙的抗皱特性减少了日常熨烫的需要，这在服装的使用寿命中节省了大量能源。

例句： In addition to having to compete with more established synthetic fibers—especially nylon and acrylic—there were notable issues with early versions of polyester fabric.

除了要与更成熟的合成纤维（尤其是尼龙和腈纶）竞争外，早期的聚酯织物还存在一些明显的问题。加工过程中静电过多、染色困难、油污等问题只是其中的几个例子。

例句： Ratty was a pioneer of the sustainable fashion industry (she started her first label, Conscious Earthwear, in the early 1990s), and she has based much of her work on the selection of high-quality fabrics with positive sustainability credentials.

Ratty是可持续时装业的先驱（她于20世纪90年代初创立了自己的第一个品牌ConsciousEarthwear），她的大部分作品都是基于对具有积极可持续性的高品质面料的选择。

例句： In 1917 the New York Times praised New York woman Edith O’Neil MacDonald for her ingenuity in developing a natural dye using the leaves fallen from hard-wood trees around her home in the Adirondacks, an idea inspired by the imprints of leaves left on sidewalks.

1917年，《纽约时报》称赞纽约妇女伊迪丝-奥尼尔-麦克唐纳（EdithO'NeilMacDonald）独具慧眼，利用她在阿迪朗达克（Adirondacks）家中周围硬木树上的落叶开发出一种天然染料，她的灵感来自人行道上留下的树叶印记。

例句： During the mid-nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, dyes began to be synthesized from chemical sources, a revolutionary change to the clothing and textile dyeing industry.

十九世纪中叶和二十世纪初，人们开始从化学源合成染料，这是服装和纺织品染色工业的一次革命性变革。

例句： The manufacture of nylon is a highly energy-intensive process and also generates nitrous oxide, a potent greenhouse gas.

尼龙的生产是一个高能耗的过程，同时还会产生一氧化二氮，这是一种强烈的温室气体。

例句： 11 This black and bright purple silk taffeta dress, colored using the new chemical synthetic dyes developed by HYPERLINK \l " bookmark2" William Henry Perkin from coal tar, dates from c.

图1.11这件黑色和亮紫色真丝塔夫绸连衣裙，colored使用了威廉-亨利-珀金（WilliamHenryPerkin）从煤焦油中提取the新型chemical化学合成d染料。

例句： At the time of their development, aniline dyes were praised not just for their modernity and beautiful hues, but also because the coaltar they utilized was waste material, and by all accounts one that was nasty, foul-smelling, and difficult to dispose of.

苯胺染料在开发之初，不仅因其现代性和美丽的色调而备受赞誉，还因为它所使用的煤焦油是一种废料，而且无论如何都是一种肮脏、恶臭和难以处理的废料。

例句： The single “most effective pollution prevention practice for textile wet processing is ‘right-first-time’ dyeing,” comments Easton.

纺织品湿加工中最有效的污染预防方法就是'正确的首次染色'"

例句： Lyocell (also known by its brand name, Tencel) has made a significant impact on the traditional rayon fibers market in recent years.

近年来，Lyocell（又名天丝）对传统人造丝纤维市场产生了重大影响。 Tencel的制造商CourtauldsFibres开始开发这种纤维，作为其"

例句： rendered the bamboo fiber a fashionable choice.

使竹纤维成为时尚之选。

例句： Organic Cotton

有机棉

例句： One pound of the red dye synthetic alizarin, reported the New York Times in 1915, equaled “the coloring power of ninety pounds of madder.”

新染料之所以如此吸引人，除了它们所产生的艳丽色彩外，还因为它们具有成本效益。据《纽约时报》1915年报道，一磅合成茜素红色染料相当于"

例句： Many other countries have also enacted regulatory measures and built filtration systems that limit chemicals and other materials in the effluent they release.

许多其他国家也制定了监管措施，并建立了过滤系统，限制排放污水中的化学物质和其他材料。

例句： During the environmentalist boom of the 1970s, the United States Environmental Protection Agency recognized the severity of the problem of textile dye wastes ending up in the earth’s waterways, and in the proceeding decades collaborated with the industry to establish standards for waste disposal.

在20世纪70年代的环保热潮中，美国环境保护局认识到了纺织染料废物最终进入地球水道问题的严重性，并在随后的几十年中与该行业合作制定了废物处理标准。

例句： Pesticides—a term that encompasses fungicides, herbicides, and insecticides—are used to deter pests and weeds.

杀虫剂--包括杀真菌剂、除草剂和杀虫剂--用于抑制害虫和杂草。剂--包括杀真菌剂、除草剂和杀虫剂--用于抑制害虫和杂草。

例句： In terms of dyeing, designers can choose nontoxic processes certified by various industry standards;

在染色方面，设计师可以选择通过各种行业标准认证的无毒工艺；

例句： Organic Cotton

有机棉

例句： Lyocell (also known by its brand name, Tencel) has made a significant impact on the traditional rayon fibers market in recent years.

近年来，Lyocell（又名天丝）对传统人造丝纤维市场产生了重大影响。 Tencel的制造商CourtauldsFibres开始开发这种纤维，作为其"

例句： constructed from soft, irregular folds of fabric.

构成由柔软、不规则褶皱的offab织物然而，虽然竹子被通常为一种可持续纤维，its其生产却与人造丝相似。

例句： The chapter also explores the historical practices and problems associated with dyeing textiles, which were magnified by the advent of industrial production and the transition from primarily organic dyes to aniline dyes, or synthetic chemical dyes, during the nineteenth century. By addressing the historical evolution of fabric production and coloration and its impact on the environment, we can make connections to the corresponding problems faced by the contemporary fashion and textile industries—as well as the more sustainable solutions proposed in response. HYPERLINK \l "

图1.1攻读时尚针织品设计在诺丁汉特伦特大学（凯特-莫里斯（了CROP、 HYPERLINK \l "bookmark2"a系列素食针织衫制作的用plant-based植物纤维她在提花图案加入了成分和保养建议intothe中 HYPERLINK \l "bookmark2"她在提花图案中加入了成分和保养建议，以促进低影响洗涤。避免使用单独的合成纤维标签意味着 HYPERLINK \l "bookmark2"整件上衣只用一种纤维--有机--制成，棉有助于最终的回收利用。

例句： Although the march of aniline dyes, with their inexpensive and radiant colors, continued undeterred through the latter half of the nineteenth century, their potentially toxic chemical makeup became a point of concern.

尽管苯胺染料价格低廉、色彩艳丽，在十九世纪后半叶仍在继续发展，但其潜在的有毒化学成分却引起了人们的关注。

例句： Countless efforts to develop more sustainable materials and processes are underway, from industry-led initiatives and ground-breaking academic research projects to explorations led by individuals and micro- enterprises.

从行业主导的倡议和突破性的学术研究项目，到个人和微型企业主导的探索，开发更具可持续性的材料和工艺的努力不胜枚举。

例句： Perkin solved the logistics of commercial development of synthetic dye, and as he said in 1868, “to introduce a new coal-tar colour after the mauve was a comparatively simple matter.”

珀金解决了合成染料商业开发的后勤问题，正如他在1868年所说，"

例句： In 1856, chemist William Henry Perkin derived mauveine dye from coal tar during an experiment, in which he had sought to create a synthetic version of the natural compound quinine.

1856年，化学家威廉-亨利-珀金（WilliamHenryPerkin）在一次实验中从煤焦油中提取出了淡紫色染料，他当时试图制造一种天然化合物奎宁的合成版本。

例句： Color-grown cotton was commonly grown prior to the industrial era; its rediscovery in recent decades has been led by farmer Sally Fox.

彩色棉在工业时代之前就已普遍种植，近几十年来，在农民萨利-福克斯（SallyFox）的带领下，人们重新发现了彩色棉。

例句： The manufacture of nylon is a highly energy-intensive process and also generates nitrous oxide, a potent greenhouse gas.

尼龙的生产是一个高能耗的过程，同时还会产生一氧化二氮，这是一种强烈的温室气体。

例句： Like nylon, polyester is made from petroleum oil and therefore carries the same devastating impacts in terms of extraction.

与尼龙一样，涤纶也是由石油制成的，因此在开采方面同样具有破坏性影响。

例句： Historian Mary Schoeser argues that silk shaped world history, with centuries of global trade leading to the transmission of designs, technologies, and ideologies.

历史学家玛丽-肖瑟（MarySchoeser）认为，丝绸塑造了世界历史，几个世纪的全球贸易导致了设计、技术和意识形态的传播。

例句： Without knowledge of how different fabrics are produced—or how they will decompose—it is easy to assume that fabrics made from natural fibers are “good,” while those made from synthetic materials are “bad In reality, weighing up the attributes of different fibers is much more complex.The proliferation of accreditation and labeling schemes in recent years provides some guidance, but the distinctions between them can be difficult to navigate.While indexes promise an objective scientific assessment of the impacts of various fibers, their methodologies and findings have been challenged for a lack of transparency and for considering only the HYPERLINK \l "bookmark387"impacts of production, rather than the whole lifecycle.As Kate Fletcher notes, “we have to be aware about the impacts of our fibre choices on the ecological, economic, and social systems of which these materials are a part—and more tangibly on whole interrelated product lifecycles, which include cultivation, production, manufacturing, distribution, consumer laundering, reuse, and final disposal HYPERLINK \l "bookmark388".”

的影响，的production,而不是整个生命周期正如凯特-弗莱彻（KateFletcher）所指出的，" 我们必须意识到我们所选择的纤维对生态、经济和社会系统的影响，这些材料是这些系统的一部分，更具体地说，是对整个相互关联的产品生命周期的影响，其中包括种植、生产、制造、分销、消费者洗涤、再利用和最终处置......" 正如凯特-弗莱彻（KateFletcher）所指出的，" 我们必须意识到我们所选择的纤维对生态、经济和社会系统的影响，这些材料是这些系统的一部分，更具体地说，是对整个相互关联的产品生命周期的影响，其中包括种植、生产、制造、分销、消费者洗涤、再利用和最终处置......"

例句： 13 This Organic by John Patrick dress was fashioned from organic cotton shirting fabric in pale blue and white HYPERLINK \l "

采用有机棉shirtingfab衬衫面料的pale淡蓝和white白色条纹 HYPERLINK \l "

例句： It is exciting to see the development of diverse innovations in the production of textile fibers that aim to address long-standing environmental challenges.

令人振奋的是，纺织纤维生产领域出现了多种创新技术，旨在应对长期存在的环境挑战。

例句： Prior to the mid-nineteenth century, that is, for most of human history, dyeing was done using organic materials gathered from plants, insects, or minerals.

在十九世纪中期以前，也就是人类历史的大部分时间里，染色都是使用从植物、昆虫或矿物中采集的有机材料。

例句： Although the primary target of her consternation was chemical pesticides, Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring issued a caution about how we treat our earth, its waterways, and the damage that repeated and prolonged chemical exposure can wreak on animals and humans alike.

尽管蕾切尔-卡逊的《寂静的春天》主要针对的是化学杀虫剂，但她也对我们如何对待地球、地球上的水道以及反复和长期接触化学物质会对动物和人类造成的伤害提出了警告。

例句： Although conventional production uses agricultural chemicals, flax can be grown without fertilizers and does not require extensive irrigation.

虽然传统生产使用农用化学品，但亚麻的种植无需化肥，也不需要大量灌溉。

例句： Unlike other cellulose-based fibers, however, lyocell utilizes a closed-loop manufacturing process, meaning that more than 99 percent of the nontoxic chemical solvent used for the fiber’s production is reclaimed and used again.

但与其他纤维素纤维不同的是，lyocell采用的是闭环生产工艺，这意味着生产纤维所用的无毒化学溶剂99%以上都会被回收并再次使用。这种纤维并非没有负面影响：总部位于瑞典的MistraFutureFashion项目研究经理SusanneSweet强调了生产过程中使用的能源。

例句： Sustainable production in the context of textile dyeing today means striving to minimize pollution, waste, and water use over the course of the dye production, application, and finishing processes.

如今，纺织品染色中的可持续生产是指在染料生产、应用和整理过程中，努力将污染、浪费和用水量降到最低。

例句： Wool is naturally occurring, renewable, and taken from an animal that can thrive on land unsuited to farming—thus leaving arable soil elsewhere for vegetable, fruit, and grain crops. In addition, it is reported that sheep help to fertilize the soil they graze upon. More specifically, studies by the Australian-based Wool Carbon Alliance have found that “wool fiber production systems, based on renewable grass and natural vegetation, complement current demands to reduce carbon emissions HYPERLINK \l "bookmark327"Wool is also fully HYPERLINK \l "bookmark328"biodegradable.

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例句： Although the primary target of her consternation was chemical pesticides, Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring issued a caution about how we treat our earth, its waterways, and the damage that repeated and prolonged chemical exposure can wreak on animals and humans alike.

尽管蕾切尔-卡逊的《寂静的春天》主要针对的是化学杀虫剂，但她也对我们如何对待地球、地球上的水道以及反复和长期接触化学物质会对动物和人类造成的伤害提出了警告。

例句： First, let us examine the development of industrial textile production systems, commencing with the astounding changes propagated by the Industrial Revolution of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.

首先，让我们从十八世纪末和十九世纪初工业革命所带来的惊人变化开始，考察工业纺织品生产系统的发展。

例句： People of all classes in England wore domestically produced wool garments in the early part of the century, and woolen fabrics were available in varying qualities and blends, such as wool and silk or wool and linen.

本世纪初，英国各阶层的人们都穿着国产羊毛服装，羊毛织物的质量和混纺方式也各不相同，如羊毛和丝绸或羊毛和亚麻。